Sunday, 1 June 2014

Buchanan Street Sweater

Released a new pattern today! Buchanan Street Sweater is a classic wardrobe staple. It's a flattering longer length with some little tricks for a perfect fit. For example, there are more stitches at the front than the back (I don't know why more patterns don't do this!) and there is extensive guidance on how to change the fit of the shoulders, sleeves and where the waist sits. I really love an "almost plain" sweater, and this one totally fits the bill for me. The pretty stitch detail at the shoulders adds just enough interest without it being overly fussy. 

Here's some pictures!









It's available to download on Ravelry, Etsy and Craftsy.

Sunday, 2 February 2014

Chunky Fairisle Cushion

 

A quick to knit, stylish cushion. This would make a perfect housewarming gift. I cheated a little to avoid a jog in the round, so this is perhaps a pattern that fairisle purists should avoid. Rather than steeking, I didn't knot new colours to old as I knitted, but knotted them all up pretty firmly at the end to cinch it all together. I also (and this was very naughty) didn't weave in the fifty odd loose ends, but just trimmed the knots and left them inside the cushion. Please feel free to back away from this pattern in horror, but I think it all looks ok, and for time-poor knitters it'll certainly do the job!



Yarn

Shetland Heather Aran by Jamiesons of Shetland:

2 balls Gingersnap = C1

1 ball Teviot = C2

1 ball Broch = C3

1 ball Natural White = C4

1 ball Sholmit = C5

1 ball Moorit = C6

1 ball Mooskit = C7



Each ball = 101yds / 92m

Measurements

To fit a 50cm x 50cm (20” x 20”) cushion



Needles

One 5mm / US 8 40”/100cm circular needle.



Gauge

15sts x 19 rows = 10cm / 4”



Extras:

One darning needle


Directions

With C7, cast on 144 stitches and join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.

Work one of the charts below. I prefer working from a colour chart, but have included a black and white version suitable for black and white printing. Bind off all stitches using C7. I didn't knot in new colours as you would normally do for fairisle knitting. After binding off I knotted ends together in pairs as follows. Turn the cushion cover inside out and work from bottom to top, pull the first pair of loose ends farily tight and knot them together using a reef knot, then do the same for the second pair you come to, and keep going until all loose ends are knotted together in pairs. Then I just trimmed the loose ends (and felt guilty).

Now, lay the cushion cover out flat with the beginning of the round at the right edge. Join the front and back of the bound off edge together using the joining method in the “techniques” section below.

Block the cushion cover as follows, or using your favourite blocking method. Soak the cushion in cold water with a small amount of mild detergent for at least 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly, then gently squeeze out as much water as you can. Roll the cushion cover up in a towel and twist it gently to remove some more water. Lay the cushion cover out flat and gently stretch it to 50cm x 50cm (20” x 20”). Leave until completely dry.

Put the cushion pad into the cushion cover and join together the cast on edges, starting from the beginning of the round, in the same way you joined the bound off edge.


Charts


Techniques


Joining bound off and cast on edges
This cushion is knit in the round, sewn up along the top, blocked, a cushion pad inserted, and then sewn up along the bottom. I sewed the top and bottom up as follows:

Lay cushion cover flat, with beginning of round at the right. We will join the first stitch at the front right with the first stitch at the back, then the second stitch at the front with the second stitch at the back etc. until all front stitches are joined to the back stitches.

To do this, thread a darning needle with a long thread in colour C7. Secure the thread to the wrong side of the cushion at the beginning of the round by sewing over one spot a few times. Then bring the needle behind the first stitch at the front from right to left, then behind the first stitch at the back from right to left (as you look at it). Pull the thread tight. Then bring the needle behind the second stitch at the front from right to left, then the second back stitch from right to left, pull the thread tight. Keep going across from right to left until all stitches are joined.



    1. Thread needle behind a stitch
     



2. Thread loose




3. Thread pulled tight






4. When it's done!



Written instructions are not ideal, so please watch the video tutorial here: http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-seaming-two-bind-off-edges-together/
They join two pieces of knitting together, whereas we just have the one which we are joining the front and back of, but the principle holds!

Pattern copyright Littletheorem. Do not reproduce in whole or in part without the author's written permission.

Sunday, 20 October 2013

Felted Lace Wrap Pattern

Just released this week, Felted Lace Wrap:

Felted Lace Wrap knitting pattern by Littletheorem

Felted Lace Wrap knitting pattern by Littletheorem

Felted Lace Wrap knitting pattern by Littletheorem

An easy lace pattern in worsted weight wool (so it's quick to knit)! The wrap is lightly felted once it's done which gives it a fuzzy, worn-in look, and softens it up. Available to download from Ravelry, Etsy and Craftsy.

Felted Lace Wrap knitting pattern by Littletheorem

Felted Lace Wrap knitting pattern by Littletheorem


Yarn: Croft Wools Aran weight Gotland yarn, one 250g skein. Available by mail order from http://www.croftwools.co.uk/wool.html

Gauge: 14 sts = 4” with 6.5mm / US 10.5 needles before blocking.

Needles: One 40” 6.5mm / US 10.5 circular needle.

Extras: Two stitch markers

Dimensions: 16” x 60”

Friday, 4 October 2013

Asphodel Shawl

I've just released a new lace pattern, Asphodel Shawl:


A stunning lace shawl with a geometric design. There are three distinct bands of lace in the shawl, working from larger to smaller diamonds with a lace edge. The shawl is constructed as a traditional triangular shawl, with the lace patterns to the right and left sides of the spine mirror images of each other.

Asphodel is available on Ravelry, Craftsy and Etsy.

Asphodel knitted lace shawl by Littletheorem


Yarn: Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace or other laceweight yarn. Two skeins = 840 yards / 768m.



Gauge: 21 sts = 4” with 4mm / US 6 needles after blocking. Exact gauge isn't crucial though.



Needles: One 40”/100cm 4mm / US 6 circular needle.



Extras: Two stitch markers, crochet hook and yarn in a contrasting colour for provisional cast on, 4.5mm/US7 needle for bind-off, pins and a large towel for blocking.



Dimensions: makes a triangle 58” across

and 29” high after blocking.



Asphodel knitted lace shawl by Littletheorem


Asphodel knitted lace shawl by Littletheorem


Sunday, 8 September 2013

Islay Hat


 
A simple unisex hat in a stylish textured stitch pattern. Includes directions for two sizes.


Islay hat free knitting pattern by Littletheorem. Twisted Moss Stitch.


Yarn: Shilasdair Luxury dk 35 (45)g from a 100g skein.



Needles: Set of four 4mm / US 6 double pointed needles (dpns), or one 4mm/US 6 circular needle for magic loop.



Gauge: 18 stitches and 26 rows = 4” in Twisted Moss Stitch.



Dimensions: 18 (21.5)” around. Stretches to fit the average ladies (mens) head.

Notation:

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

k1b= knit 1 into back of next stitch

k2tog = knit next two stitches together

k1bw = knit one into the stitch directly below the next stitch on the needle.

dpn = double pointed needle


Techniques

k1bw

Knit into the stitch below by inserting needle as shown:

How to knit twisted moss stitch

 
Stitch Patterns

Twisted Rib

Round 1: *k1b, p1* to end of row.

Repeat round 1 for pattern.



Twisted Moss Stitch

Round 1: purl.

Round 2: *k1bw, k1* to end of round.

Round 3: purl.

Round 4: *k1, k1bw* to end of round.

Repeat these four rows for pattern.

Islay hat free knitting pattern by Littletheorem. Twisted Moss Stitch.





Directions:



CO 80 (96) stitches over three dpns or on circular needle for magic loop method. Join stitches in the round ensuring they're not twisted and if using circular needle, place marker for beginning of round.



Work in Twisted Rib Pattern for 8 (10) rounds, then knit one round.



Work in Twisted Moss Stitch until hat measures approximately 6½” (7½”), finishing with Round 3 of pattern



For smaller size, follow instructions for decreases immediately below. For larger size, follow instructions below that, headed "Decreases for Larger Size".



Decreases for Smaller Size

Decrease round 1: *(k1, k1bw) four times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 2: *p8, k1* to end of round

Decrease round 3: *(k1bw, k1) three times, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 4: *p7, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 5: *(k1, k1bw) three times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 6: *p6, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 7: *(k1bw, k1) twice, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 8: *p5, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 9: *(k1, k1bw) twice, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 10: *p4, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 11: *k1bw, k1, k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 12: *p3, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 13: *k1, k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 14: *p2 k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 15: *k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 16: *k2tog* to end of round.



Decreases for Larger Size

Decrease round 1: * (k1, k1bw) five times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 2: *p10, k1* to end of round

Decrease round 3: *(k1bw, k1) four times, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 4: *p9, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 5: *(k1, k1bw) four times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 6: *p8, k1* to end of round

Decrease round 7: *(k1bw, k1) three times, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 8: *p7, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 9: *(k1, k1bw) three times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 10: *p6, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 11: *(k1bw, k1) twice, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 12: *p5, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 13: *(k1, k1bw) twice, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 14: *p4, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 15: *k1bw, k1, k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 16: *p3, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 17: *k1, k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 18: *p2 k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 19: *k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 20: *k2tog* to end of round.



You should have 8 stitches left. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread the long tail onto a needle, and slip the remaining stitches onto the thread. Pull tight and sew over the little hole at the top a few times. Weave in the loose ends on the wrong side and you're done!



Copyright Littletheorem: Do not reproduce in full or in part without the author's written permission.

Islay hat free knitting pattern by Littletheorem. Twisted Moss Stitch.

 





Sunday, 18 August 2013

Knit 1 Pearl 1

A cute knitted storage box with pearl detail



Yarn: Rowan R2 Rag One ball = 25m/27yds

Needles: One set of 5 6.5mm/US 10.5 double pointed needles

Gauge: 12 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch using 6.5mm/US 10.5 needles. (exact gauge isn't crucial but your knitting should be pretty tight)


Dimensions: 4” x 3” x 2”

Extras: Crochet hook for weaving in ends, needle and thread, three freshwater pearl beads

Notation
k = knit
p = purl
dpn = double pointed needle


Stitch Patterns

Stocking Stitch

Row 1: knit

Row 2: purl

Repeat these two rows for pattern


Garter Stitch in the round:

Round 1: knit

Round 2: purl

Repeat these two rows for pattern


Techniques
Pick Up and Knit
The edge stitches of a piece of knitted fabric look like a column of v shapes. To pick up and knit from the edge, put your needle under the v from front to back, bring your yarn round the needle and pull it through, this is one more stitch on your needle.

If working from a cast on edge, put your needle under each cast on stitch from front to back, bring yarn round the needle and pull it through. Work from left to right along the edge of the knitting picking up and knitting stitches as you go.

Directions
Cast on 10 stitches. Work in stocking stitch for 10 rows, starting with a knit row (it'll be ok to use dpns for this since you have so few stitches).


Next row: k10, with a second dpn, pick up and knit 10 stitches from the left hand side of your knitting, with third dpn, pick up and knit 10 stitches from cast on edge, with fourth dpn, pick up and knit 10 stitches from right hand side of your knitting. You should have 40 stitches on the needles and be ready to work in the round.

In the round (i.e. the next stitches you work will be from the first dpn), work in garter stitch for 8 rows, starting with a purl row. It may be easier for you to work with the box turned inside out.

Bind off all stitches tightly.

Finishing
Weave in any loose ends. Sew the three pearl beads to the bottom of the box as shown.